Discover the Secret Side of Venice
All tourists take gondola rides, but kayaking allows you to explore the city most don't see.
Venice may be obviously, even overwhelmingly beautiful. Despite its circular alleys and its pastel palazzos, Italy’s most touristy city (only 55,000 people actually live in Venice’s historic center, which gets a whopping 20 million people a year) always feels like it’s withholding something.
Sure, you can work your way down a litany of prescribed tourist sites–the crowds of San Marco, the Rialto, the Accademia–but every street you turn down, every bridge you cross, you’re always glancing out of the corner of your eye at the path not taken, wondering if there’s a hidden private party going on at the piano nobile, or first story, of a random palazzo (during Carnival season, in February, there probably is), whether an unmarked courtyard leads to a still-better trattoria in town.
It was on my fifth visit to Venice that I started to realize that it’s only possible to really see Venice by staying on the water, rather than on land. I’d chosen a baroque floating hotel of sorts whose 10-day tour wisely focuses its efforts on the Venetian lagoon. The winding geography of the city–so dizzying on land–makes perfect sense from a narrow river boat; The constant motion–as we docked near the Biennale one night, near the Accademia the next–highlights the dazed, dreamlike atmosphere of trying to maneuver the city, where every moonlit wrong turn seems to take you into an alternate parallel universe.
But it is only once I board my kayak, slipping out a back door in a 15th-century palazzo in a tiny, unmarked courtyard in Cannareggio and finding myself straight on the water–that I really discovered the heart of the city.
As we kayak from Cannareggio to the Jewish ghetto, where white sheets hang from laundry lines–latticing the canal–over our heads, our guide showed me a completely different Venice to the one I’ve seen for years: a Venice where the grand front entrances of palaces open straight onto the brackish, blue-green water, where locals drive their personal boats past the slick obsidian vessels of the gondeliers (whatever you do, the guide made clear, do not scratch their boats). Locals call out directions in dialect as they turn each blind corner; the vaporetto water-taxis make perilous waves as we try to cross the Grand Canal. Families sit on balconies, looking out windows, over canals inaccessible from the street.
Venice will never give up all its secrets. But ninety minutes into my kayaking–my arms sore and my shoulders sunburned–I’ve learned a few more.
Tara Isabella-Burton, who is a frequent contributor for National Geographic Travel, recently wrote about her favorite Italian island. Follow her travels on Twitter.
Go Further
Animals
- Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them?
- Animals
- Feature
Octopuses have a lot of secrets. Can you guess 8 of them? - This biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the AndesThis biologist and her rescue dog help protect bears in the Andes
- An octopus invited this writer into her tank—and her secret worldAn octopus invited this writer into her tank—and her secret world
- Peace-loving bonobos are more aggressive than we thoughtPeace-loving bonobos are more aggressive than we thought
Environment
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?U.S. plans to clean its drinking water. What does that mean?
- Food systems: supporting the triangle of food security, Video Story
- Paid Content
Food systems: supporting the triangle of food security - Will we ever solve the mystery of the Mima mounds?Will we ever solve the mystery of the Mima mounds?
- Are synthetic diamonds really better for the planet?Are synthetic diamonds really better for the planet?
- This year's cherry blossom peak bloom was a warning signThis year's cherry blossom peak bloom was a warning sign
History & Culture
- Strange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political dramaStrange clues in a Maya temple reveal a fiery political drama
- How technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrollsHow technology is revealing secrets in these ancient scrolls
- Pilgrimages aren’t just spiritual anymore. They’re a workout.Pilgrimages aren’t just spiritual anymore. They’re a workout.
- This ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrificeThis ancient society tried to stop El Niño—with child sacrifice
- This ancient cure was just revived in a lab. Does it work?This ancient cure was just revived in a lab. Does it work?
- See how ancient Indigenous artists left their markSee how ancient Indigenous artists left their mark
Science
- Jupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of yearsJupiter’s volcanic moon Io has been erupting for billions of years
- This 80-foot-long sea monster was the killer whale of its timeThis 80-foot-long sea monster was the killer whale of its time
- Every 80 years, this star appears in the sky—and it’s almost timeEvery 80 years, this star appears in the sky—and it’s almost time
- How do you create your own ‘Blue Zone’? Here are 6 tipsHow do you create your own ‘Blue Zone’? Here are 6 tips
- Why outdoor adventure is important for women as they ageWhy outdoor adventure is important for women as they age
Travel
- This royal city lies in the shadow of Kuala LumpurThis royal city lies in the shadow of Kuala Lumpur
- This author tells the story of crypto-trading Mongolian nomadsThis author tells the story of crypto-trading Mongolian nomads
- Slow-roasted meats and fluffy dumplings in the Czech capitalSlow-roasted meats and fluffy dumplings in the Czech capital