Meet the bowhead whale hunters of northern Alaska

Each spring, local hunters sit on the edge of the ice and wait for whales—a custom that’s at least 1,000 years old.

ByDaniel Stone
Photographs byKiliii Yüyan
8 min read
a boy
Yugu Alfred Ningeok is the son of a whaling captain and a member of an Inupiat whaling crew.
a boat
An umiak, or skin boat, carries a small team in pursuit of a whale.

Hear more about camping on sea ice with whale hunters in our podcast, Overheard at National Geographic.

This story appears in the December 2018 issue of National Geographic magazine.

On the North Slope of Alaska, the culture of the Inupiat centers on whales. Each spring, men and women spend weeks on the tuvaq—the ice near the water—watching for bowhead whales migrating north from the Bering Sea to the Canadian Arctic. When one is spotted, a team pushes an umiak onto the water. There is typically one chance to harpoon the whale. If the hunt is successful, each person in the village can receive a share of the meat.

whale meat
A butchered bowhead whale can yield thousands of pounds of food. The ninit—community shares of meat and blubber—are apportioned equitably to ensure that everyone benefits from a successful hunt. “The highest aspiration you can have is to become a whaling captain,” says photographer Kiliii Yüyan. “It’s a job that provides for the entire community.”
globe pointing to northern alaska
NGM MAPS

This story of cultural continuity enthralled photographer Kiliii Yüyan. Yüyan is indigenous himself, a descendant of the Hezhe (Nanai in Russian) hunters and fishermen of northern China and southeast Siberia. Stories portraying indigenous communities as degraded or destitute miss their complexity, says Yüyan. “You have to be with them to see their full hope and their joy.”

For 10 months in a span of five years, Yüyan lived among the Inupiat in Utqiaġvik (formerly known as Barrow). He camped with a crew on the sea ice to watch for whales, often volunteering for the night shift when the darkness and quiet set in. It’s a silence quickly broken, he learned: When a whale comes, a spotter calls out its position, urging the crew to launch. “When they’re close, [the noise] is not faint,” he says. “It’s notable. They sing songs. It’s like a musical.”

man standing
Thomas William Kingosak always carries a rifle during whale hunts to use in case a polar bear attacks. Polar bears have been known to approach hunting camps in search of food.
whale
Bowhead whales are adapted to extremely cold water. On their annual migration through the Chukchi and Beaufort Seas, they have been observed breaking ice up to two feet thick to make space to breathe.
a man with a paddle
A hunter listens to the water for songs of nearby whales.
whale
“Whaling is community. It takes a village to pull up a whale,” says whaling captain Ned Arey. But this bowhead proved impossible to land, despite more than eight hours of effort by dozens of Inupiat. It was abandoned after it broke through the thin sea ice several times—a likely symptom of the warming Arctic.
man standing
Evelyn Donovan, mother of an Inupiat whaling captain, stands on her front porch with drying seal meat and a polar bear hide.
a man shooting a gun
During whaling season, the Inupiat don’t hunt much else, but an enormous flock of eiders is fair game. J.R. Nungasak shoots at the sea ducks as they pass over the ice.
a jumping person
At Nalukataq, the Inupiat whaling festival in Utqiaġvik, people celebrate a productive whaling season and give thanks for the gift of the whale. Successful whalers do the blanket toss, in which they rely on the group to catch them safely. This practice goes back millennia and encourages intimacy among the villagers.
people sitting on a boat
Whaling captain Qallu Reich and his daughter, Siana, scan the horizon for whales. Inupiat children are encouraged to participate in whaling and other traditional practices, despite the dangers on the sea ice. “I don’t want them to forget who they are,” says Reich.
a man
Larry Lucas Kaleak is the new co-captain of an Inupiat whaling crew. He is responsible for many of the day-to-day duties of the crew, including the nightly watch for polar bears.
people
Members of the Yugu crew clean the hide of a nanuq, or polar bear, that had been shot when it stalked into their camp. Some Inupiat believe declining sea ice is responsible for bears’ increased desperation for food.
tent
High above the Arctic Circle on sea ice a mile from shore, a blind shelters members of an Inupiat whaling crew as they watch for a passing bowhead whale by the light of the midnight sun. The Inupiat have hunted whales here for at least 1,000 years, but climate change and globalization are rapidly altering their culture.

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